Take notes on Ivy.

Photo: Giovanni Giannoni

Second from right epitomizes casual luxury.

Feeding time at the sharpest school of all.

The Social Network has been topping many a chart and splitting many an opinion - due it's controversial story line and the fact that it is about the birth of Facebook - the most powerful website in the world, bar none.

But before I went to watch it I was in no way prepared to be dazzled by some of the attire that was on display in this motion picture - not so much Mark Zuckerberg: he dressed exactly as you would think the creator of Facebook would dress, in a way that suggests he doesn not often leave the comfort of his dormitory bedroom and so dresses in appropriate comfort ie: shabby.

It was the Winklevoss twins and their affluent clan that truly caught my sartorial eye, to the point that the following morning I googled them and the Ivy League schools in order to ascertain as to whether they were merely a fluke of fashion or whether it is something that regularly happens in these prestigious American schools: it came as a shock as modern day Ivy League schools have always been synonomous with khaki and ill fitting jeans in my mind.

It was then that I stumbled across this book Take Ivy the product of an innovative Japanese photographer: Teruyoshi Hayashida, who toured the Ivy League Schools in the late sixties visually documenting the students and their attire - at the time it was a phenomenon among Japanese boys to dress like Ivy Leaguers [as I like to call them] but it never really appealed to anyone else.

Now, Take Ivy, is fashion gold dust.

The images depict a time when tracksuits were never even considered let alone worn (even when partaking in sport), trousers always allowed the socks or ankles to show, hair was never allowed to stray, the only logos were College emblems and the boys - geniunely were Gentlemen.

The Ivy League Men represent a traditional, affluent, ambitious Gentleman who is more than capable of controlling himself, his career, and his mind - all whilst roaming around in the stiffest of collars, the shiniest of loafers and the sharpest of jackets.

Now that's a man.

Thom Browne does the look in a vicariously quirky way - contrasting sleeve letterman jackets, crisp chinos, thick woven white shirts - add a diagonally striped slim tie and you have the ultimate collegiate look without looking too retro.

Bespoke?

The value of Bespoke Tailoring as never been underestimated by any self respecting, impeccably dressed, male individual.

But now, the art of bespoke, is being simplified somewhat and thrust onto the high street. No, not Topman, but Reiss, the closest thing to a high end, high street retailer that the streets of Great Britain have on offer.

David Reiss, the business mogul behind this slice of genius has described his company mission as trying to 'exceed the expectations with the exceptional level of quality and service we are offering'.

The service is set to be an emulation of the more established tailors freckled along Savile Row, such as Gieves and Hawkes, but for - in comparison - miniscule prices for something that fits, exactly as it should.

What a monumental step in the right direction, the service will be available from September in their flagship stores. Over 50 Italian and English fabrics will be on offer, which can be sculpted into 32 different jacket styles and topped off with 12 differing trouser options, all of which will be tweaked, snipped and made especially for your body, with all it's unique little quirks.

Prices start at £550, but we need not shout about this when asked where, and by what means, we managed to purchase such a fine, sharp suit.



[And look they got a hold of Maximillian, the Select model who has been scattered all over the menswear industry recently, including in the September issue of GQ, like a centrfold just deigning to be pulled out and stuck on your wall.]

Westwood and Lee strike again

Following on from last season, one of the most successful collaborative projects has debuted it's second collection together.

That's right Vivienne Westwood Anglomania and Lee denim have combined forces to create yet another sumptuous denim collection. The new selection was debuted at Milan fashion week on the 20th June to the delight of the Westwood/Lee admirers.

This time round some new styles have come in to add a splash of variety to Westwood's trade mark bondage and drop crotch denim.

The Mayfair jeans - a pair inspired by the classic sartorial of Savile Row tailors - complete with iron creases down the front - have been brought into to add a more formal edge to the overtly casual and increasingly edgy collection.

Along with the Mayfair, the Mechanic and the overall jeans, which are variations of slim cut and banana leg jeans [in reverse order!] have been brought in too, both certain to attract many a new fan.

To tempt you even more some t-shirts and a denim jacket [with a trademark lopsided collar] are also available within the collection, so you can commit to the collaboration without wearing jeans!

Here's to another season of wearing Westwood and Lee simultaneously.

www.viviennewestwood.com

Definately NOT just a label

Not Just A Label, the renowned global business directory for avant-garde designers are launching their first organic cotton collection tomorrow.

The collection is a by-product of a more than successful collaboration featuring NJAL and three designers: London based Japanese designer Aoi Kotsuhiroi, Patrick Mohr - one of Germany's most promising and influential design talents and Danish design duo Spon Diogo.

Three designs - one from each collaborative party feature in the SS10 collection. A 'nowhere' vest is Kotsuhiroi's offering, Mohr created a simplistic and powerful black and white t-shirt, whilst Spon Diogo used their graphic talents to create the 'ying yang' t-shirt, acting as the more flamboyant tee of the three.

All t-shirts are 100% organic, fairtrade cotton and feature no synthetic additions - hard to come by in this day and age!

All three are available from NJAL website from tomorrow and are priced at £55/65 euro

www.NOTJUSTALABEL.com

Alexander McQueen AW'10 Menswear Preview

7th Man Magazine was invited yesterday to preview the AW'10 Menswear collection by the late Alexander McQueen.

The AW'10 collection is his best yet in McQueen's history of Menswear - combining structural, sharp tailoring and shapes with beautiful textured knits. What was wonderful to see was how Lee had carried across his experiments and developments in fabric technology, prints and patterns (which he perfected so beautifully in his two most recent Womenswear collections) into the realm of Menswear.

The story of this AW'10 collection begins with the melting of the polar ice-caps, and its impact on the immediate environment and life that surrounds them, namely the fishermen and the polar bears and how they would cope in these harsh circumstances.

These themes manifest in magnificent ways through the use of fabric technology and prints: a dark fur print used on super soft brushed fabrics were made into tailored coats and hooded jackets trimmed in real fur, summon up images of menacing (Black?) polar bears; ice crack patterns were woven into metal jacquard jackets and trousers that look like crackling lightning on a thunderstorm night; oversized water droplet featured on coats and suits.

Balancing out these darker themes were beautiful pieces in a palette of soft greys: oversized cable knit patterns were printed on shirts and soft wool coats; large chainmail prints featured on leather pieces and on jersey polo necks (with intricate silver work in a Celtic theme embroidered on top at the shoulders - most impressive); the oversized cable knit patterns also transform itself into prints of regal crests and military braiding, suggesting the idea of armor and protection against the harsh elements of this story.

These fantastical patterns and effects are carried out through to all the accessories - from bags to wallets to gloves to belts and shoes.

From a distance, what looked like a worn/distressed effect on a pair of boots turn out, on closer inspection, to be a complicated pattern of skulls.

Among the many treasures within this collection were worn-out brogues and boots with a fully masted ship intricately and beautifully etched into the leather at the toes.

A beautifully crafted collection of romance and menace - the Perfect McQueen combination.

(Thank You to Myriam and Alistair who took me through the whole collection in such depth and detail!!)

www.AlexanderMcQueen.com

The AW10 McQueen Womenswear was also featured at the Press Day, and 7th Man Magazine had to share some images with you.

Dresses suitable for a Byzantine Goddess were created out of the softest and shiniest silk in statuesque prints with complicated beadwork.

Sculptural dresses were made in black, blood red and printed silk satin and damasks with gold embroidery.

The intricately crafted accessories were reminiscent of regal relics from the Byzantine period.

Broken Record

I hate to sound as the title implies: but here is another heritage footwear brand worth buying into. what with the slight craze for good old Americanisms recently, I feel that an authentic American cobbler is perhaps the best thing to purchase this season.

Yuketen are an industry renowned brand, stocked in premium boutiques and websites. Yuki Matsuda is the designer behind this atmoshperic brand: emulating the techniques of traditional American methods, a product of his own primary research observing the footwear worn by remote locales from the Appalachians all the way to the high Sierras.

Just be seeing the product a smooth traditinal warmth hits you, the Chukka boots are particularly fabulous, made from slouchy, soft leather and available in an array of wholesome colours, anything from orchid to ivy, with a mismatching patchwork for good, stylish measure.

London stockists include Dover Street Market and Present on Shoreditch Highstreet, get down there and buy into a brilliant brand.

http://www.yuketen.com

Popular and Practical

Being the fashionable fellows that we all are, it has been impossible no to notice the renaissance in classic footwear over the last few years: from winkle pickers to desert boots and flings with brogues and saddle shoes, for confirmation on this observation, just take a peek at 80% of all women under 40 [and some over] cavorting around in London wearing clogs.

I would like to observe that at the route of this heritage footwear fetish that we are all unconsciously harbouring: is the practicality they embody.

Brogues with their sustainability and satisfyingly thick, hard wearing soles, desert boots with their intrinsic links to the army all those years ago, boat shoes boasting of their long term relationship with the shiny hard decks of gthe priviledged... all a wise investment and a purchase that screams longevity.

The reason for these footwear musings is the fact that Sperry, the original deck shoe is celebrating it's 75th Anniversary, yes 75 years of unanimous popularity and wear.

You can buy a bit of their Birthday celebrations by investing in a pair of their 3 unique Anniversary designs: All three are based on the original premium booat shoe but with subtle modernisations in order to keep them relevant on [and off] the shiny yachts, just look at those gorgeous cream canvas pumps, beautiful and oh so perfect for the beckoning sunshine.

I am personally trying to get an example of each heritage foot wear trend in my collection: as evidence to my future children, that we did indeed used to wear what they think is cool, and I think these Sperry celebratory boat shoes are probably a worthy addition to the archive.

These gorgeous shoes will be available in limited premium stores, making them all the more lustrous!

Check their website for details www.sperrytopsider.com

Raf not Rif

Well would you look here, Raf by Raf has pulled out all the pop stops for the AW10 collection.

The wearable staples such as biker jackets and duffel coats, have been transformed from boringly predictable to quirky and contrasting. Just look at those yellow PVC sleeves and those zips!

This suprisingly on tune collection from the diffusion range - belonging to a designer who certainly has his finger in a number of tasty pies - comes at a time when critics were beginning to think the worst of Simons capabilities.

The collection confirms contrast sleeves as one of the most commercial and accessible trends to come off the AW10 catwalks.

Textures and colours combining as if there were never any rules about them being seen together, whoever thought orange and yellow would work in such an understated way?

So the wang-ish [WRTW] leathers are not for the faint hearted but look at the padded denim bomber, simply sumptious, I'd readily push people out of the way for one of those to keep me warm next winter.

A master class in layering is also taught to us here: and an underlying message of 'anything goes' is simply not to be ignored.

Winter 2010 is sure to be a fun one, although maybe not if the models severe expression is a compulsory accessory to the looks...

http://www.rafbyrafsimons.com

ps: look at the gloves and try not to think about how snowflakes are going to be a mini trend for AW10.

Gentlemen's Tonic

Channeling a modern dandy has become more and more accessible for the contemporary gentleman, and so, the grooming techniques of the traditional dandy should not be ignored.

London is full of wonderful places to get groomed to an immaculate standard, and to take home some products that will maintain your exquisite glow for as long as you deign to use them.

Gentlemen's Tonic is probably one of the most established and esteemed traditional barbers. It was founded in Mayfair and offers a traditional barbers for the modern man, with the added convenvience of lifestyle and grooming services, perfect to put the cherry on the bakewell of your sartorial aesthetic.

This bespoke establishment also has on offer a delightful product range designed exclusively for you. Babassu and Bergamot was launched by Gentlemen's Tonic in 2008, all products are 100% natural, with specific benefits for you...

Alpine Moss in Daily Foaming Cleanser maintains skin's natural PH balance, whilst using their grape oil infused classic shave cream offers the perfect protective barrier between your skin and your deceptively invasive razor.

The range combines essentials with luxury and bespoke with acessible. All products are unisex, so perhaps you could persuade a loved one to indulge your vicarious needs with the promise, that they too can reap the benefits?!

Despite the devices you use to get these products in your life, it is time to preen and perfect, there is no accessory to a suit, like that of a groomed man.

www.gentlemenstonic.com

Gentlemens Tonic is also available for hire: a perfect location to ease the tension of a corporate event.

High Contrast

Contrast sleeves are set to be a big trend for AW10, so lets get started a little early and kill two trends with one delightful jacket.

Stewart and Strauss is an American site famed for it's utterly fabulous letterman jackets, the reason they are so famed, is that you can design it yourself: your choice of colour, your choice of fabric, your choice of lettering, everything is your choice.

With contrast sleeves being an important focal point for many a luxury collection and sportswear [particularly] American sportswear, being the fashion phenomenon that it consistently is: it's worth getting a little creative.

Or if you fancy going for an already existing option, then Stewart and Strauss are still the option for you: they have a gallery of their best sellers for your viewing pleasure, and you can rest assured that no other custom made [or ready made] letterman jacket will be able to beat these on price and quality.

Roll on October, I am ready to get lettered.

https://thejacketshop.com/

James Long: The inimatable rebel.

The collection was cohesive and immediate: you just wanted to run and steal one of the distressed black woolens, to put on immediately, his ability to manipulate yarns is second to none, except perhaps Mark fast's womenswear: but that is neither here nor there.

The palette was dark and sulky, flashes of red were littered about creating a richness to the collection that the otherwise inobtrusive palette could not have managed alone.

Details: Head bands, leather: cushioned/panelled/all over it was everywhere, oversized knits, boiler suits, biker trousers, obese courdroys, shearling, denim, distressed.

I think those words summarise the collection in it's most simplistic terms quite effectively. Again shearling was sent down the runway: this time in the shape of bags and random detailing. All denim was printed with red, all courdroy was made up of FAT channeling rather than the rather demure grooves of courdroys on offer in American Apparel.

Navy was a popular colour for this maestro of British fashion and a biker/grease monkey theme was impossible to ignore: what with the leathers and boiler suits popping up consistently.

All in all, this collection stayed true to Long's menswear vision, It was fresh, contemporary and wearable.

Images by James Pinkie Terry.

Christopher Shannon shows us the slopes.

No one has ever mastered quirky leisure wear with quite the same mastery as Christopher Shannon: his trade mark icy palette remained but with neon pop colours which added a lovely retro edge and made me think of it as the wardrobe for the cast of Saved By The Bell - if they were ever to go skiing.

The formula was the same as always: Panelling, colour blocking and pattern OVERLOAD. Paisley and snowflakes are the patterning choice for AW10, appearing on knitted head bands, turtle necks, trousers and jackets: it was simply sumptious.

The tech fabrics that Shannon has the ability to manipulate with such ease were fashionably in attendance: netting and nylon the infamous favourites! Splashings of sartorial kept the juxtaposition of sportswear and tailoring going strong.

Shearling detailing confirmed this as the ultimate fabric for the colder, fresher months of 2010 and the earliest months of 2011 or now (if you are not already wearing your spring/summer concoctions in an act of brazen defiance?).

Quite frankly, I want nothing more than to go to the alps next winter in head to toe Christopher Shannon, not to ski. Just to wear it.

Komakino set their marching orders.

Komakino sough help from the experts with the styling for their fiercely military show: Anders Solvsten Thomsen - previously of 'Pop' - currently with 'Love' was tirelessly making sure these dip dyed boys were immaculate, whilst the designers were scarcely seen.

Ominous music, remeniscent of a scene prior to rape or murder in cinema, accompanied the boys in black down the runway.

Gothic and 90's grunge undertones added depth to the fiercely military collection: epaulettes topped off many a shoulder, intimidatingly painted doc martins gave a sturdy edge to the boys walk, and wool coats with leather panelling created a delightful contrast admidst the black.

Splashings of bleach over trousers/shirts/jackets reinforced the decade that is now officially vintage: the 90's have been courted for many seasons among the fashionistas of the real world, and it is now that the designers have smartened it up for adaption.

Head wear looked to be inspired by the war attire of medieval knights: offering up a touch of heritage which has been flounced about generously among all the fashion weeks.

Overall Komakino offered up an inoffensive interpretation of some sort of grunge army: leather knuckle dusters contrasted with carefully structured wool coats, set off nicely by nude shirts, a perfectly proportioned, expertly crafted, military creation.

All images by ( as always) by James Pinkie Terry