Thursday, 22 April 2010

Alexander McQueen AW'10 Menswear Preview

7th Man Magazine was invited yesterday to preview the AW'10 Menswear collection by the late Alexander McQueen.

The AW'10 collection is his best yet in McQueen's history of Menswear - combining structural, sharp tailoring and shapes with beautiful textured knits. What was wonderful to see was how Lee had carried across his experiments and developments in fabric technology, prints and patterns (which he perfected so beautifully in his two most recent Womenswear collections) into the realm of Menswear.

The story of this AW'10 collection begins with the melting of the polar ice-caps, and its impact on the immediate environment and life that surrounds them, namely the fishermen and the polar bears and how they would cope in these harsh circumstances.

These themes manifest in magnificent ways through the use of fabric technology and prints: a dark fur print used on super soft brushed fabrics were made into tailored coats and hooded jackets trimmed in real fur, summon up images of menacing (Black?) polar bears; ice crack patterns were woven into metal jacquard jackets and trousers that look like crackling lightning on a thunderstorm night; oversized water droplet featured on coats and suits.

Balancing out these darker themes were beautiful pieces in a palette of soft greys: oversized cable knit patterns were printed on shirts and soft wool coats; large chainmail prints featured on leather pieces and on jersey polo necks (with intricate silver work in a Celtic theme embroidered on top at the shoulders - most impressive); the oversized cable knit patterns also transform itself into prints of regal crests and military braiding, suggesting the idea of armor and protection against the harsh elements of this story.

These fantastical patterns and effects are carried out through to all the accessories - from bags to wallets to gloves to belts and shoes.
From a distance, what looked like a worn/distressed effect on a pair of boots turn out, on closer inspection, to be a complicated pattern of skulls.

Among the many treasures within this collection were worn-out brogues and boots with a fully masted ship intricately and beautifully etched into the leather at the toes.

A beautifully crafted collection of romance and menace - the Perfect McQueen combination.
(Thank You to Myriam and Alistair who took me through the whole collection in such depth and detail!!)

The AW10 McQueen Womenswear was also featured at the Press Day, and 7th Man Magazine had to share some images with you.
Dresses suitable for a Byzantine Goddess were created out of the softest and shiniest silk in statuesque prints with complicated beadwork.

Sculptural dresses were made in black, blood red and printed silk satin and damasks with gold embroidery.

The intricately crafted accessories were reminiscent of regal relics from the Byzantine period.


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