James Long S/S 11

Synonymous for his inventive take on classics knits as well as a talent for producing some of the finest prints to hit the runway at LFW, James Long's new collection is testament to his incredible eye for detail. Signature looks included swirling impressionist prints and stylised paint splatters which were softened by lightweight knits and muted colours. Caramel mottled leather jackets were a key look within this collection, while tightly laced desert boots were the footwear of choice for the James Long man:

What is the design process behind this collection?

I always say that each collection kind of carries on from the last and as a designer, I'm always researching and picking stuff up. I went to Woodstock in New York and that inspired the whole desert feel to this collection. I remember there was this amazing guy there and he'd this great burn-out hippy look and from him to the guys coming into my studio to try things on, I'm always picking up inspiration. I worked a lot with the artist Ethan Cook on the prints for this collection and he was a regular visitor to my studio, which is very much an open place full of people I trust and together we continuously come up with new ideas for each collection.

Do you have any personal style icons?

Oh millions! I love David Bowie - he always seems to work his way back in. A lot of my heroes are from my era, so Kurt Cobain, Robert Mapplethorpe, I love Patti Smith.... Anyone can put clothes on, but I think it's more about wearing the clothes and having an attitude and knowing what you're talking about.

Your known for your knitwear, a material which is more closely related to A/W than S/S. Do you have any style tips for wearing it this upcoming season?

For heavier knits, just team them with lighter materials for a cool look, or just simply incorporate more jersey fabrics into your wardrobe.

Where do you see the future of men's fashion in this country?

When I first started at FASHION EAST, it was just crazy. There was just one show at the time and now there's so many. It's great because it's bringing the buyers in. I've done three NEWGEN shows now, so I don't really know where the support goes for me next, it's always just rolled on. But, with the BFC doing the showROOMS in Paris amongst other things, everyone is definitely behind the future of menswear.

A Closer Look- James Long AW10

This past week, 7thMan visited the LONDON show ROOMS in New York!! The British Fashion Council's international design initiative to bring London's leading emerging fashion talents across the pond, to increase their presence and develop their businesses internationally.

One who came along for the ride was of course James Long, a designer who brought innovation in every piece. Nothing but special to get a closer look, to see all the details or even better to have on! The knits were a big hit from the beginning, cozy and edgy. A print that made a statement, and jackets that carried rabbit-hair to velvet. Fantastic gloves one did not notice before, along with other accessories that made the collection complete.

Images speak for themselves.

Contributing Editor-NJD

James Long: The inimatable rebel.

The collection was cohesive and immediate: you just wanted to run and steal one of the distressed black woolens, to put on immediately, his ability to manipulate yarns is second to none, except perhaps Mark fast's womenswear: but that is neither here nor there.

The palette was dark and sulky, flashes of red were littered about creating a richness to the collection that the otherwise inobtrusive palette could not have managed alone.

Details: Head bands, leather: cushioned/panelled/all over it was everywhere, oversized knits, boiler suits, biker trousers, obese courdroys, shearling, denim, distressed.

I think those words summarise the collection in it's most simplistic terms quite effectively. Again shearling was sent down the runway: this time in the shape of bags and random detailing. All denim was printed with red, all courdroy was made up of FAT channeling rather than the rather demure grooves of courdroys on offer in American Apparel.

Navy was a popular colour for this maestro of British fashion and a biker/grease monkey theme was impossible to ignore: what with the leathers and boiler suits popping up consistently.

All in all, this collection stayed true to Long's menswear vision, It was fresh, contemporary and wearable.

Images by James Pinkie Terry.