Tuesday, 30 March 2010

Unveiling of the new LEVI'S London Flagship store

7TH MAN MAGAZINE was today invited to an exclusive unveiling of the newly re-constructed LEVI'S flagship store on London's Regent Street, which will open to the public tomorrow (Wednesday 31st March).

Jamie Hall from Levi's explained to us in incredible details the various concepts of the store, which has a strong emphasis on the heritage of craftsmanship and the history of the Levi's denim branding.

As we entered the store, there were massive ceiling to floor portraits of various artists/craftsman/artisans that are participating in the Levi's current project, these include textile designers, set designers and sculptors. Displayed with their work are headphones that contained messages left by these creatives about themselves, what they do and what inspires them.
This area, known as "The Origins" area, will be left as a clean gallery space to showcase these type of special Levi's collaborations.

Behind the "Origins" area lies the actual store itself.
The fitting and units here are designed to have an industrial feel that is outside the normal realms of fashion: for example, the metallic units on the shop floor are actual crates used in the pharmaceutical industry, and the curved shelving on the walls of the "Inspection Gallery" are inspired by architecture used in airlines. There are also metallic lockers that looked like they came from the old factory staff changing rooms.

Blank brown paint canvases are littered here and there on the walls - the intention of this is to draw attention to the brown duck canvas material itself, which was a revolutionary material used around 150 years ago to make garments for industry workers such as farmers and miners. This material was hard to wear and rather uncomfortable - and over time it led to the development of denim and the Levi's brand.

The same brown duck canvas lines the wall of the new changing rooms which is now unisex, with blue painted barn-like doors. When switched on, there are lights that alert staff for help, which should help any embarrassments of being half dressed behind changing room doors shouting for assistance!

The research into the perfect retail experience can be seen in how the womenswear and menswear shopping areas are arranged.
The womenswear area is arranged like a wardrobe, with different types of garments placed next to each other so the shopper can put looks together as they shop, whereas the menswear section is arranged by different catergories of garments - as men shops very differently to women.

This is also reflected in the "Inspection Room" in the basement, which is organised especially to eliminate the hassle and difficulties of buying a pair of jeans. Mannequins display the different styles/fits of jeans, while the unit directly below shows the different washes/treatments/finishes available in that style/fit with a code. Using this code you can find the jeans in your size directly behind you on a metal shelf. Easy!

As the Levi's 501 is the biggest jean in the world, a special area in the basement is dedicated to it.
Around the walls are 501s in 18 different washes, with the most popular 4 washes (there are 22 washes in total!!) in the centre folded in a special self-selection area in the centre catered for easy shopping.
Together with a massive see-through denim vault/store room, nearly half of this new Levi's store is dedicated to the 501 jean.

The romance of the 501 jean can be experienced in the Vintage section.
The current model on display is the 501 taken from the 1933 archive. It features metal braces buttons and a cinch back, with belt loops at the sides that were only just introduced back in the 30s - an era of US economic crisis and the Great Depression.

We finished the tour at the bottom of the glass staircase where a framed pair of Levi's 201 jean that came from the San Francisco Levi's archive (this model will be available to buy later this year). These were found in a mine around 100 years ago - they have been cleaned only and kept in an air tight, temperature controlled environment - not restored/repaired in any other way.

Interestingly, this amazing pair of vintage jeans from 100 years ago really sums up the ethos and heritage of the Levi's brand: Classic, yet forever modern and enduring, defying trends and outlasting the cycles of fashion.

A Closer Look- James Long AW10

This past week, 7thMan visited the LONDON show ROOMS in New York!! The British Fashion Council's international design initiative to bring London's leading emerging fashion talents across the pond, to increase their presence and develop their businesses internationally.

One who came along for the ride was of course James Long, a designer who brought innovation in every piece. Nothing but special to get a closer look, to see all the details or even better to have on! The knits were a big hit from the beginning, cozy and edgy. A print that made a statement, and jackets that carried rabbit-hair to velvet. Fantastic gloves one did not notice before, along with other accessories that made the collection complete.

Images speak for themselves.

Contributing Editor-NJD

A Closer Look-Tim Soar AW 10

A collection that truly embodies "Simplicity at its best," as we both agreed. Tim Soar explained that his focus was on the details, and how he could make them traditional.

7thMan says he has succeeded in his mission for the coming fall. With a motorcycle jacket made of cord, cropped tops with leather trims, that can be pared with classic trousers. Soar brought the victorian silhouette back that can be seen through the blazers, with slimmer sides and darts exposed for quality. A camel over-coat stood out simple, but perfect for the trend of the year...

Contributing Editor-NJD

Saturday, 27 March 2010

Make way for Murdock.

Next time you find your self clipping along the clean streets of Dover Street, Mayfair, take a turn down Stafford Street and you are sure to meet a treat. Nestled just around the corner from one of London's most infamous boutiques you will find 'Murdock', a far cry from the usual clinical barbers of modern London.

Murdock is a barbers and gentlemen's grooming salon offering a cocktail of services, just under the price you would expect.

The Murdock barbers are a subtle yet tangible force within the men's grooming market. The Liberty's branch is famed for it's shaving service and the original Shoreditch branch is almost an organic development carved from it's surroundings, it is also responsible for trimming the trendiest barnets in East London.

Yet, the Mayfair branch, [the newest egg to stroll out of the Murdock nest], holds a certain prestige in my mind. Situated in amongst the most exquisite boutiques of Mayfair, it infiltrates your senses with a with a warm, spiced musk as you enter, whilst the soft warbling of great singers from the past dispell of any dubious thoughts you had before entering.

It truly takes you back to a time when men were immaculate, women were exquisite and manners were essential. It seems more like the home of a British eccentric than that of a ,modern barbers.

Trinkets and treasures, haphazardly placed around the room bombard your eyes with nostalgic imagery and foreign uses. Images of enviable facial hair - photographed by the staff of Murdock, for the clients of Murdock - lead you up the polished, spiralling wooden staircase, where an imposing stags head greets you nonchalantly.

Bottles of shaving foam, cologne and aftershave from established and thoroughly English brands such as: Dr Harris & Co, line the dust free shelves. Photography books spill out over several surfaces, each with a Murdock bookmark stating a price, as yes, they are for sale. But try before you buy.

The employees are professional, efficient and enthusiastic: a forties style vixen and and a quirkily dandy fox, both knowledgable in the trade and passionate about their business. Conversation throughout your treatment is sure to delve into deeper depths than where you are holidaying this summer!

Although this time long tradition of visiting the barbers is perhaps a tad archaic in the present climate, it's places like Murdock that remind us all that the heritage of a well groomed male lies in the capable hands of others.

Let 2010 be a year of indulgence, make way for Murdock in your routine.

Prices start at about £34, Call Helen on 07875946704

All images by James Pinkie Terry

Thursday, 25 March 2010

Preview of Issue One featured on FTape.com!!

Heres a link to a sneak Preview of 7TH MAN MAGAZINE Issue One!!

Cover model is Marlon Teixiera @ Wilhelmina NYC
Photographer: Matteo Zini
Fashion Editor: Julie Ragolia

More to come - watch this space!!

Wednesday, 24 March 2010

Underwear should be outerwear

Next winter you'll have to resist the temptation of belting your trousers below your underwear, as he house of Alexander McQueen expands their vast reach into your underwear draw.

Yes, AW10 will see the launch of a brand new collection of Alexander McQueen underwear, comprising of sleepwear, fashion, basics and lounge wear.

The collection features iconic patterns from the late, great Alexander and will renew their designs as trends come and go to stay as relevant to fashion as is ultimately possible.

The sleepwear is inspired by the sartorial geniuses of Savile Row, including luxury fabrics in opulent shades, contrasted with McQueen's, now infamous, skull print. Amazing no?

The collection will be available online and in stores from June 2010, and will be kick started with a limited edition red charity boxer, a contrasting waistband adds a highly needed element of branding. All percentage of all proceeds will go to AIDS charities around the world including the Terrence Higgins Trust and Lila, who said fashion didn't have a conscience?!

And next Summer will this venture expand even further into mens swimwear, 7th Man can hardly wait.

Prices start from £35.


DBA - we should all know

If you are anything like the 7thMan... always looking for a new way to save the earth, then you should and will know about DBA. A New York based company founded in 2008 with the goal of developing unique products that combine aesthetic strength, technical innovation, and ecologically effective principles.

Starting with the DBA pen, and where does one start to explain this fantastic product. It is the only 98% biodegradable pen in the world. Produced at a wind-powered facility in the United States, it was designed as a responsible alternative to the wasteful and often toxic pens we use everyday. The ink consists os few simple ingredients(water, nontoxic-pigments etc..)which means its safe for both humans and the environment.
The endless notebook is composed of chlorine-free, post-consumer recycled paper, and produced in the USA using 100% wind-based power.

The DBA pen and endless notebook are available for purchase as of now for shipment on April 1st. Order a pack or a set and learn more.

Be in the lookout with forthcoming products as simple as a dishwasher to a necessity as a heater.

To know more about DBA visit, www.dba-co.com

Contributing Editor - NJD

Sunday, 21 March 2010

Raf not Rif

Well would you look here, Raf by Raf has pulled out all the pop stops for the AW10 collection.

The wearable staples such as biker jackets and duffel coats, have been transformed from boringly predictable to quirky and contrasting. Just look at those yellow PVC sleeves and those zips!

This suprisingly on tune collection from the diffusion range - belonging to a designer who certainly has his finger in a number of tasty pies - comes at a time when critics were beginning to think the worst of Simons capabilities.

The collection confirms contrast sleeves as one of the most commercial and accessible trends to come off the AW10 catwalks.

Textures and colours combining as if there were never any rules about them being seen together, whoever thought orange and yellow would work in such an understated way?

So the wang-ish [WRTW] leathers are not for the faint hearted but look at the padded denim bomber, simply sumptious, I'd readily push people out of the way for one of those to keep me warm next winter.

A master class in layering is also taught to us here: and an underlying message of 'anything goes' is simply not to be ignored.

Winter 2010 is sure to be a fun one, although maybe not if the models severe expression is a compulsory accessory to the looks...


ps: look at the gloves and try not to think about how snowflakes are going to be a mini trend for AW10.

Friday, 19 March 2010

Gentlemen's Tonic

Channeling a modern dandy has become more and more accessible for the contemporary gentleman, and so, the grooming techniques of the traditional dandy should not be ignored.

London is full of wonderful places to get groomed to an immaculate standard, and to take home some products that will maintain your exquisite glow for as long as you deign to use them.

Gentlemen's Tonic is probably one of the most established and esteemed traditional barbers. It was founded in Mayfair and offers a traditional barbers for the modern man, with the added convenvience of lifestyle and grooming services, perfect to put the cherry on the bakewell of your sartorial aesthetic.

This bespoke establishment also has on offer a delightful product range designed exclusively for you. Babassu and Bergamot was launched by Gentlemen's Tonic in 2008, all products are 100% natural, with specific benefits for you...

Alpine Moss in Daily Foaming Cleanser maintains skin's natural PH balance, whilst using their grape oil infused classic shave cream offers the perfect protective barrier between your skin and your deceptively invasive razor.

The range combines essentials with luxury and bespoke with acessible. All products are unisex, so perhaps you could persuade a loved one to indulge your vicarious needs with the promise, that they too can reap the benefits?!

Despite the devices you use to get these products in your life, it is time to preen and perfect, there is no accessory to a suit, like that of a groomed man.


Gentlemens Tonic is also available for hire: a perfect location to ease the tension of a corporate event.

Sunday, 14 March 2010

High Contrast

Contrast sleeves are set to be a big trend for AW10, so lets get started a little early and kill two trends with one delightful jacket.

Stewart and Strauss is an American site famed for it's utterly fabulous letterman jackets, the reason they are so famed, is that you can design it yourself: your choice of colour, your choice of fabric, your choice of lettering, everything is your choice.

With contrast sleeves being an important focal point for many a luxury collection and sportswear [particularly] American sportswear, being the fashion phenomenon that it consistently is: it's worth getting a little creative.

Or if you fancy going for an already existing option, then Stewart and Strauss are still the option for you: they have a gallery of their best sellers for your viewing pleasure, and you can rest assured that no other custom made [or ready made] letterman jacket will be able to beat these on price and quality.

Roll on October, I am ready to get lettered.


Friday, 12 March 2010

London in New York - Any Old Iron Opening

New York just got a little more exciting with the opening of Any Old Iron. The first retail store of its kind to hit lower Manhattan will specialize in selling rare and UK-specific menswear. Labels such as Sir Tom Baker's rock & roll suiting, Bolongaro Trevor's mod inspired menswear, and Child of the Jago from the collaborative designers Branzley and Joe Corre (son of Vivienne Westwood) Red Mutha and Electronic Poet, which the majority are exclusive to Any Old Iron. The shop will also sell contemporary labels as Fred Perry, Raf Simons x Fred Perry, Unconditional, London Undercover and S***R shoes.

Any Old Iron is the brainchild of designer/stylist, Andrew Clancey and arts-entrepreneur, Christopher Melton. The shop’s name is rooted in the olden cry of a scrap man collecting metal with his horse and cart, and also hearkens to Clancey’s family scrap metal business which was founded in 1872. “Any Old Iron” is also an Old English music hall song which references a young man’s sartorial dandyism – a quality that is distinctly English and ever-present in the shop’s design and the legion of British designers featured.

In addition to exclusive collections, rare and sought-after antiques will also be for sale.
Fitting perfectly into Lower East Side. (LES)

For more information please visit: www.anyoldiron.net
Any Old Iron
149 Orchard Street,
bet Stanton and Rivington Streets
New York

Contributing Editor - NJD

Swear AW10 - Preview

Offering a distinct range of styles for AW2010, London based footwear brand Swear have reinterpreted the classics. Whether a military lace-up boot or a vintage brogue, and then applying their main influences which is music and youth culture, fueled by the urge for "old is cool" but "luxury is king".

Mottos and inspirations seen through the collection.

Visit Swear-London.com

Contributing Editor - NJD