Carolyn Massey

Fashion East

Fashion East Highlights...

Christopher Shannon and J.W. Anderson S/S 11

Christopher Shannon







Since graduating from Central St Martin's MA menswear course in 2008, Christopher Shannon has well and truly made his mark on the British Fashion Industry through redefining the high-fashion sportswear genre. Needless to say, the crowd at the BFC tent waited with bated breath as they geared up for the unveiling of his new collection entitled "Never Get To Go Anywhere". Shannon's latest export was influenced by the nostalgic feeling of "Never getting to go anywhere on holiday" and derived inspiration from a vibrant combination of holiday and festival snaps taken by friends and family, as well as a nod towards Passa Passa reggae videos, fake ethnic tourist trinkets and reggae artist Dillinger.

As the models stormed the runway to a thumping soundtrack with their faces painted and bodies loaded with accessories, the blatant homage to festival stylings was revealed. With the initial stream of models sporting bright whites and a multitude of layering, the looks soon transitioned into Shannon's signature wide use of graphics mixed with a splattering of camouflage. Crisp white shirts had pastel coloured patches spliced together, while multi-textured knitwear featured in odd proportions and sat alongside block coloured anoraks.

Surprising touches, such as the smattering use of the rather questionable colour lilac and hats festooned with sprouting ruffles added a playful edge to the entire collection.

J.W. Anderson

In close succession to Christopher Shannon was the spectacular showcase by J.W. Anderson. The collection, named "The Devoured and I" began with a certain rural feel before fluidly transforming into an all out psychedelic affair. Less is more was certainly not the case with this collection as Anderson sent his models down the runway in clashing prints, boots bejeweled with Swarovski crystals and the designer's trademark overload of accessories.

In a nod to previous collections, a multitude of looks possessed a certain bondage feel, with models donning spiked collars and knits with harness-like stylings. In all the palette was a vibrant mish-mash of colours combined with a haze of patterns that prompted an almost hallucinatory effect.

As the show concluded with the models lining up under the eerie glow of a sparkly, green laser smokescreen with the crowd looking on in awe, one thing became evidently clear, J.W. Anderson's new collection is testement to the belief that the British fashion industry is consistent in producing some of the most new exciting designers to rock the fashion world.

Topman Design S/S 11

The second show of the morning was Topman Design which took place at the spectacular setting of The Royal Opera House. As the models sauntered down the runway, the ultimate Topman Design boy was unveiled and one thing became abundantly clear- This was one cool kid.

"The Topman Design Spring Summer 2011 boy is found hanging around the record shops of Brighton, rifling through the vintage stores for authentic pieces and second hand finds. Slightly psychedelic and mod in style, he is not afraid to mix old with new, techno with retro, honing his look through accessories and styling".

Touting sleek charcoal suits with vibrant shirts peeking out underneath, the retro feel continued with washed authentic vintage sweats tucked into shorts and teamed with matching parkas in lustrous nylons. Stand out pieces included bright knits emblazoned with kitsch vintage motifs while key accessories included over-sized military canvas bags heavily decorated with old-school tie pins as well as a tribute to The Beatles with John Lennon-esque circular shades.

Topman Design's signature silhouette this season is modern and structured with a short torso and high waisted shape created with the aid of the accessory du jour- The skinny brown belt.

Lou Dalton S/S 11

The morning's proceedings of London Fashion Week's dedicated Men's Day, kicked off bright and early with Lou Dalton's S/S 11 showcase at Somerset House. Despite the early rise, the airy show space was alive with chatter and bubbling anticipation as the models took to the runway.

Having described her designs as “Rebellious English sportswear with a strong attention to detail”, Dalton’s new collection once again fuses her signature touches of eccentricity, this time making a nod towards the nomadic lifestyles and nonconformity of the Romany people. Inspired by their "make do and mend" philosophy, Dalton takes a designer spin on the threadbare clothing of this traveling culture, while at the same time bringing to the forefront their love of embellishment combined with functionality.

The result is a rich collection, perfect for the new season. Blazers brandishing ethnic touches are teamed with shorts that have been vertically patched together with raw edges. Light-weight knits and buttoned up shirts feature throughout, while the accessories of the moment were lace-up boots and straw hats.

Overall it was a neutral palette of navy, maroon and tan, however true to her original influence, Dalton incorporated bold splashes of hot pink patterns and even the odd bright blue frill to her designs, proving that it's even the smallest of touches that can bring a collection to a whole other level.

We caught up with Lou Dalton during a preview of her new collection at this year's STITCH to find out more about one of Britain's leading menswear talents:

As a designer, what led you to menswear?
I left school at sixteen to enroll onto a YTS scheme (Youth Training Scheme) at a tailoring company in my hometown of Shropshire called Pardie Clothing. Although Pardie Clothing did make the odd bespoke suit for a woman it was predominantly Menswear. Being exposed to Menswear from that age was very much the foundation to what I do now; it just seemed the obvious and most suitable choice.

Do any other designers influence your work?
Not so much influence, but inspire.

What is your working process?
The Spring/Summer Collection was completed back at the end of June and is currently being sold at wholesale, with the salon show on the 22nd of September. We are currently working on the looks for this, using those items that were completed back in June and adding additional showpieces. We have a couple of collaborations on the go for September which is exciting, as well as the new website with online store going live early September.

Tell me about your new collection for Spring/Summer 2011.
The Spring/Summer 2011 collection is inspired by the nomadic lifestyle and the nonconformity of the Romany people. A life on the road doesn’t allow for much, however the “make do and mend” nature of their threadbare clothes does not detract from the eccentricity of an aesthetic full of passion and pride of their ethnic identity. A traveling life means little luxury, yet the utilitarian functionality embraces the breadth of cultural diversity encountered on the road. With a magpie’s eye for detail, simple garments have life breathed into them drawing on influences from as wide spread from as India, Europe and North Africa, through the use of paisley prints and African Dutch wax printed cottons.

What kind of man do you imagine wearing this collection?

A confident individual, one of many.

What’s your favourite piece from the new collection?

There are two areas of the collection that I am most happy with, the first being the raw-edge, super fine mohair; the second being a mix of light weight denim and Dutch wax African prints.

Where do you see menswear headed in the future?
In terms of product, I think the general feeling is value for money and longevity, can the design stand the test of time?