In the setting of a great metropolis, perfectly attuned to the open spaces of any big city, the Emporio Armani is a collection that brings freedom of movement and a contemporary edge to couture.
Never so fluid and lightweight as today, with not a trace of an imaginary life among trees and meadows, this season the Italian house is plunging into an intensely realistic urban townscape. There we find beautifully tailored yet wearable overcoats, sometimes combined with waistcoats, to provide protection and warmth, while projecting a completely new image of a modern man who understands style and can adjust his own personal taste to what is current.
This year shoulders are understated but lengths are still impressive, the cut is fitted and pared down, with special attention paid to the construction of the collar – asymmetric, double, stand-up with flap fastening against the cold – all contributing to a deconstructed silhouette.
Armani waves goodbye to nylon and quilting, as this is the year for wool in a range of treatments, nubuck style sheepskin and leather for a reassuring sense of solidity, maintained through a range of jackets in streaked wool with needle punch effects that seem scratched into the pile.
The collection was very cohesive as the same treatment also recurs throughout the accessories, shoulder bags, bags and shoes, which as ever reference and emphasise the key themes of the collection.
Among the most innovative designs of this season are trousers that unite the casual and sporty with the elegant aplomb of the tailored darts at the waist, absolutely typical of the Armani style.
Staying true to his own colour aesthetic,Emporio Armani's palette is precisely defined with hints of camel; grey marl in a range from medium to dark and a scent of black for long overcoats and formal wear.
By Andreas Menelaou Features Assistant
More images after the jump