The Marni Man collection for Fall/Winter 11/12 puts work elements out of context creating a new balance. As ever, the tone is graphic, dry as opposed to romantic: contrasting fabrics and a boldly subtle use of prints define a precise study in function and proportion. The idiosyncratic contraposition of forms, lengths and materials is quintessentially Marni.
A sense of ease and exactitude runs through the collection, from the sport pieces to the more formal items. Trousers are slouchy at the waist and slim down at the ankle whereas suits draw the same silhouette with soft jackets. Boxy sweaters with contrasting details and lightweight crewnecks with monochromatic stripes are graphic in tone and precise in execution.
De-contextualization is the sartorial keyword for this season with key pieces being broken down and put back together again.Compact ¾ length wool coats with leather sleeves,zip-up cotton shirt-jackets with wool sleeves whereas woolen work jackets sport a nylon duvet front. Shirts, either buttoned or zipped-up, are meant to be worn as a base layer or as outerwear. Moreover jumpsuits look like blouson ‘n trousers combos, but only in the front and bold intarsia creates a two tone contrast on corduroy trousers worn with matching jackets.
Not anymore confined to shirts or internal garments, prints get to the front, adding another layer of movement and dots,flowers and hearts predominantly take over on shirts and shirt-jackets.
It wouldn't be true Marni if the palette was not rich and muted yet surprising us with sudden pop of colour .Camel, beige, inky blue, military green, rust, black are united with shots of flame red and screaming orange to add the Marni touch. Fabrics have a dry, sturdy hand: wool cotton gabardine; cotton corduroy; denim; heavy cotton jersey; crispy wool; crisp technical nylon.
Accessories include brushed leather work shoes secured with spat-like straps, round-toe lace-up derbies, felt and leather super-flat totes and cotton canvas bags. Luxury hat maker Borsalino collaborated with the Italian brand to create trilbies and bowlers with contrasting brims and a ribbed wool band in place of the trim to conclude the look that Marni wanted to achieve for the Marni Man this season.
By Andreas Menelaou Features Assistant
More lookbook images after the jump