Friday, 18 February 2011

Y-3 & Yohji Yamamoto take us on a journey for A/W'11

To finish off our presentation of New York fashion week as London Fashion week has just started we probably did save the best for last.Shown in New York's Soho district on Sunday, February 13, 2011, as part of New York fashion week, the collection debuted on a set constructed to resemble a dusty trail, further underscoring the season’s back-to-nature message.

"Traveling means coming back home," Yamamoto explained backstage of the show's inspiration. "We are always unconsciously wanting to come back. It is one of man's strongest desires."

With this in mind Y-3 begun with Yohji Yamamoto's journey and hit the road for Autumn/Winter 2011-12 with a collection inspired by the nature of escape whether that is on horseback, on foot, and into the hills, that is your choice.The show presented clothing designed for a journey, combining classic materials and silhouettes with futuristic and protective details like waterproof zippers, neoprene insets, holographic toggles, and ergonomic quilting.

The collection explored variations on a theme of escape, and was inspired by books such as Jack Kerouac’s On the Road and Jon Krakauer’s Into the Wild. This meant protection first and foremost, realized in exaggerated funnel-neck collars; simple modularity; voluminous, cocoon-like silhouettes; and intensive quilting on everything from hoods to coats to leggings. In classic Yohji Yamamoto fashion, prints and patches on select garments spelled out the collection’s theme, stating phrases like “Nowhere in Particular,” “Homeward Bound,” and “I’m on the Road.”

Ultimately, the show was about the journey not the destination, and the clothing was designed with this in mind. Showing army parkas, striped union suits, quilted work jackets in suede and wool, and cotton leggings inset with panels of Fair Isle knits, Y-3 menswear show was one of the few that every single fashion editor left happy and with an abundant of pieces that they'd want to use and write about.Y-3 show had what all the others show were missing which was variety.

Still being as innovative as he was 15 years ago, Yamamoto introduced two new breakthrough fabrics: Cool Max Wool, a breathable wool with an evaporative cooling system, and Diaplex, a wool herringbone bonded to Goretex that molds itself to the body, becoming like a second skin.A Y-3 show review would feel incomplete without a mention to all the amazing accessories.Oversize hooded scarves, quilted nylon hats and gloves belted with 3 pieces of leather - a subtle play on the three-stripes tradition and adidas executed shoes in classical shapes and materials concluded probably one of the best shows of New York Fashion Week, craftmanship, in vision and in imagination!

Now who can top that?!

By Andreas Menelaou Features Assistant


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