For The Love Of Fashion

New York fashion week began yesterday and all the madness that follows it. A procedure that many don't get to see and the ones who do, do it for The Love Of Fashion.

R .J. Cutler, better known as the director of The September Issue, documented designers David & Marcus from Rag & Bone 3 days leading up to their AW2010 shows. The documentary that premiered showed all the behind-the-scenes process.

Even though it was a short-film it had the quality for more and frankly left us wanting more...

Images from that afternoon.

Seemed like yesterday.

All images by NJD

Bespoke?

The value of Bespoke Tailoring as never been underestimated by any self respecting, impeccably dressed, male individual.

But now, the art of bespoke, is being simplified somewhat and thrust onto the high street. No, not Topman, but Reiss, the closest thing to a high end, high street retailer that the streets of Great Britain have on offer.

David Reiss, the business mogul behind this slice of genius has described his company mission as trying to 'exceed the expectations with the exceptional level of quality and service we are offering'.

The service is set to be an emulation of the more established tailors freckled along Savile Row, such as Gieves and Hawkes, but for - in comparison - miniscule prices for something that fits, exactly as it should.

What a monumental step in the right direction, the service will be available from September in their flagship stores. Over 50 Italian and English fabrics will be on offer, which can be sculpted into 32 different jacket styles and topped off with 12 differing trouser options, all of which will be tweaked, snipped and made especially for your body, with all it's unique little quirks.

Prices start at £550, but we need not shout about this when asked where, and by what means, we managed to purchase such a fine, sharp suit.



[And look they got a hold of Maximillian, the Select model who has been scattered all over the menswear industry recently, including in the September issue of GQ, like a centrfold just deigning to be pulled out and stuck on your wall.]

In Depth - Siki Im AW2010

Siki Im's AW10 collection celebrated the idea of being an individual. Using the clever concept of the much structured and predictable Wall Street Man. By adding a crazed effect (think American Psycho) the point came strongly across. The video explores in deeper themes of the clothing, perfectly by Robert Hamada.

Taken by: NJD, Siki Im AW2010 February 2010 - New York Fashion Week

Alexander McQueen AW'10 Menswear Preview

7th Man Magazine was invited yesterday to preview the AW'10 Menswear collection by the late Alexander McQueen.

The AW'10 collection is his best yet in McQueen's history of Menswear - combining structural, sharp tailoring and shapes with beautiful textured knits. What was wonderful to see was how Lee had carried across his experiments and developments in fabric technology, prints and patterns (which he perfected so beautifully in his two most recent Womenswear collections) into the realm of Menswear.

The story of this AW'10 collection begins with the melting of the polar ice-caps, and its impact on the immediate environment and life that surrounds them, namely the fishermen and the polar bears and how they would cope in these harsh circumstances.

These themes manifest in magnificent ways through the use of fabric technology and prints: a dark fur print used on super soft brushed fabrics were made into tailored coats and hooded jackets trimmed in real fur, summon up images of menacing (Black?) polar bears; ice crack patterns were woven into metal jacquard jackets and trousers that look like crackling lightning on a thunderstorm night; oversized water droplet featured on coats and suits.

Balancing out these darker themes were beautiful pieces in a palette of soft greys: oversized cable knit patterns were printed on shirts and soft wool coats; large chainmail prints featured on leather pieces and on jersey polo necks (with intricate silver work in a Celtic theme embroidered on top at the shoulders - most impressive); the oversized cable knit patterns also transform itself into prints of regal crests and military braiding, suggesting the idea of armor and protection against the harsh elements of this story.

These fantastical patterns and effects are carried out through to all the accessories - from bags to wallets to gloves to belts and shoes.

From a distance, what looked like a worn/distressed effect on a pair of boots turn out, on closer inspection, to be a complicated pattern of skulls.

Among the many treasures within this collection were worn-out brogues and boots with a fully masted ship intricately and beautifully etched into the leather at the toes.

A beautifully crafted collection of romance and menace - the Perfect McQueen combination.

(Thank You to Myriam and Alistair who took me through the whole collection in such depth and detail!!)

www.AlexanderMcQueen.com

The AW10 McQueen Womenswear was also featured at the Press Day, and 7th Man Magazine had to share some images with you.

Dresses suitable for a Byzantine Goddess were created out of the softest and shiniest silk in statuesque prints with complicated beadwork.

Sculptural dresses were made in black, blood red and printed silk satin and damasks with gold embroidery.

The intricately crafted accessories were reminiscent of regal relics from the Byzantine period.

Balmain Homme AW10 - Reviewing

Balmain, the combination of classical and a sophisticated grunge feel that Christophe Decarnin offers. Looking through the looks of his latest men's Autumn/Winter 2010 collection, and noticing the youthful impact that holds a strong bond to style. Perfecting various elements such as motorcycle with leather pants, everyday-workwear based on blazers and khakis, yet all with an ease to cool. Therefore resulting in a collection true to its esthetic and thus, the best one so far.

Contributing Editor - NJD

Those Crazy Cats at BLOW

7TH MAN MAGAZINE is a great supporter of the designers represented by BLOW PR in London.

They look after really great British based, cutting edge menswear designers such as Qasimi and Komakino, which are both featured in the current SS10 issue of 7TH MAN MAGAZINE.

BLOW PR actually represent over 50 designers all in all in their spacious showroom located near Oxford Circus (womenswear, menswear, accessories) - many of which has been worn by uber cool artists and musicians such as Lady Gaga and Paloma Faith.

We were invited today to preview their AW10 collections.

Qasimi's beautiful collection included shirts with pearls sewn around collar and cuff edges, contrasted with sharp, fine tailoring in black leather.

Komakino's collection featured pieces in their signature black, such as bomber jackets and leather biker jackets. The leather armour/breastplates look particularly interesting. A collaboration with Dr Martens featured what looks like thick textural black paint layered onto various parts of the boots.

What really captured my eyes was a spectacular installation featuring a perfectly sprayed black trolley in the centre of the room, showcasing Gemma Slack headdresses:

Stevie (left) wears neck piece by Blandine Bardeau, leather gimp mask by Gemme Slack

Ella (right) wears top by Aqua Couture

Headdresses on/in trolley by Gemma Slack

Trolley (£1.00) available from nearest supermarket, customised by Ella & Ash (now Priceless!!)

After an extensive and informative tour of the AW10 collections by Ella, Ash and Ivan, I was lead to the food table (it was lunchtime afterall...) where I discovered various sugar goodies such as cookies made into the shape of the BLOW PR logo by Gothic Cookie, and lovely cupcakes on a stick by Molly Bakes (she also does edible transfers to use on cupcakes!)

.... and then I was told Molly Baked two SPECIAL cakes for Press Day - one inspired by the work of hair maestro Charlie Le Mindu:

Special "Charlie Le Mindu" cake - Wow!!

.......and another SPECIAL cake inspired by milliner Piers Atkinson:

Ash wears hat with beaded veil by Piers Atkinson,

blazer by Qasimi

holding cake by Molly Bakes

What visual and culinary wonders!!!!

7TH MAN was impressed.

We look forward to partying with these Crazy Cats from BLOW PR tomorrow night at our launch.

We have a feeling its gonna be a wild one......

A Closer Look- James Long AW10

This past week, 7thMan visited the LONDON show ROOMS in New York!! The British Fashion Council's international design initiative to bring London's leading emerging fashion talents across the pond, to increase their presence and develop their businesses internationally.

One who came along for the ride was of course James Long, a designer who brought innovation in every piece. Nothing but special to get a closer look, to see all the details or even better to have on! The knits were a big hit from the beginning, cozy and edgy. A print that made a statement, and jackets that carried rabbit-hair to velvet. Fantastic gloves one did not notice before, along with other accessories that made the collection complete.

Images speak for themselves.

Contributing Editor-NJD

Underwear should be outerwear

Next winter you'll have to resist the temptation of belting your trousers below your underwear, as he house of Alexander McQueen expands their vast reach into your underwear draw.

Yes, AW10 will see the launch of a brand new collection of Alexander McQueen underwear, comprising of sleepwear, fashion, basics and lounge wear.

The collection features iconic patterns from the late, great Alexander and will renew their designs as trends come and go to stay as relevant to fashion as is ultimately possible.

The sleepwear is inspired by the sartorial geniuses of Savile Row, including luxury fabrics in opulent shades, contrasted with McQueen's, now infamous, skull print. Amazing no?

The collection will be available online and in stores from June 2010, and will be kick started with a limited edition red charity boxer, a contrasting waistband adds a highly needed element of branding. All percentage of all proceeds will go to AIDS charities around the world including the Terrence Higgins Trust and Lila, who said fashion didn't have a conscience?!

And next Summer will this venture expand even further into mens swimwear, 7th Man can hardly wait.

Prices start from £35.

www.alexandermcqueen.com

Raf not Rif

Well would you look here, Raf by Raf has pulled out all the pop stops for the AW10 collection.

The wearable staples such as biker jackets and duffel coats, have been transformed from boringly predictable to quirky and contrasting. Just look at those yellow PVC sleeves and those zips!

This suprisingly on tune collection from the diffusion range - belonging to a designer who certainly has his finger in a number of tasty pies - comes at a time when critics were beginning to think the worst of Simons capabilities.

The collection confirms contrast sleeves as one of the most commercial and accessible trends to come off the AW10 catwalks.

Textures and colours combining as if there were never any rules about them being seen together, whoever thought orange and yellow would work in such an understated way?

So the wang-ish [WRTW] leathers are not for the faint hearted but look at the padded denim bomber, simply sumptious, I'd readily push people out of the way for one of those to keep me warm next winter.

A master class in layering is also taught to us here: and an underlying message of 'anything goes' is simply not to be ignored.

Winter 2010 is sure to be a fun one, although maybe not if the models severe expression is a compulsory accessory to the looks...

http://www.rafbyrafsimons.com

ps: look at the gloves and try not to think about how snowflakes are going to be a mini trend for AW10.